Warranty Information

Since our products are designed to provide you with many years of satisfaction, all products are fully guaranteed against defects in materials and workmanship for 1 year from the date of purchase. Our guarantee does not cover product damage that may result from abuse of the product or airline mishandling. If an airline damages your bag, you should immediately file a damage claim with the airline. In the event that a problem arises as a result of a defect in material or workmanship; we will promptly repair your product (or replace it, if we feel it cannot be repaired) at our expense. Our only requirement is that you contact the dealer directly from which you purchased the bag.
Please note, as with any product, it should be expected that component parts - particularly leather, moving parts and wheels - will show wear with use over time and may eventually need to be refurbished or replaced. This type of normal wear and tear is not covered by our warranty.

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Leather Facts

  • Direct exposure to UV rays of the sun often causes fading or discoloration.
  • Leather can usually be repaired if it is scratched or torn.
  • Leather is long-lasting and extremely durable. Quite often leather items last many years with keepsake items passed along as family heirlooms after 25 to 35 years.
  • Leather softens as it ages.

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    Leather Care

    Whether you've just invested in a leather attache, leather briefcase, or other fine leather product be sure to protect that investment by taking care of it.

    Because leather is a natural product, it needs only very little care during normal usage. Please note, however, leather dries out with age, sunlight, perspiration, humidity and other natural causes. When leather dries out, tiny cracks appear in the leather and the dyes. These small cracks can become quite noticeable. Prolonged drying increases the severity of cracks. In extreme dryness, leather becomes so brittle that it can literally crack into pieces.

    The leathers that currently go into manufacturing most of today's fine leather items are Protected leathers and can be cleaned with a very mild, soapy solution mixed with a little bit of water.

    Unprotected leathers (i.e. pure anilines) require special handling. For this you would want to obtain a quality cleaning and conditioning leather care product. As a preventative, one should apply a conditioning cream when you first purchase the item and again before you start to use the item. Then, apply a small amount of cream several times throughout the year. Because Unprotected leather is susceptible to spotting from water and other liquids, a newly purchased leather item should be treated immediately to help prevent permanent stains from occurring.

    A good leather cream cleans and protects. It cleans the leather removing dirt and soil but does not remove the natural oils that protect the leather. It also conditions the leather without clogging the pores; this allows the leather to breathe and prevents the leather from drying out and cracking. Some leather creams and products may darken or alter the color of leather. So be sure to test the leather conditioner on an inconspicuous area of the piece before applying it all over.

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    Dos and Don'ts

  • When leather becomes wet or damp, DO let it air dry naturally. Apply a small amount of conditioner when the leather is nearly dry. This restores flexibility. After the leather is completely dry, follow with a full conditioning treatment.
  • DO NOT use waxes, silicone products or products that may impair the ability of the leather to breathe.
  • DO NOT place leather near artificial heat sources. (heat lamp or blow dryer)
  • DO NOT use leather preparations that contain alcohol or petroleum distillates such as turpentine and mineral spirits.
  • DO NOT use Mink oil or other animal fats which often tends to darken leather. Also, animal fat can turn rancid, causing the stitching and leather to rot.
  • DO NOT use too much oil or wax on leather because it can clog pores and cause leather to lose its ability to allow air in and moisture out.
  • For the best protection, DO use a light cleaner and conditioner that are highly effective and very easy to use.
  • DO NOT use lotions and conditioners made for smooth leathers on suede or rough out leather. Always check the label carefully before applying.

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    Spot Cleaning

    Leather will initially repel most liquids. However, if left to stand over an extended period of time, it will be absorbed. That is why it is important to mop up spills immediately. Even if the spill is absorbed, it will dissipate in time, just as human skin will absorb and eventually diffuse stains.

    For spots and spills, blot the excess liquid immediately. Use a clean absorbent cloth or sponge. If necessary, use lukewarm water and gently wipe the spill, dry with a clean towel and then allow it to air dry.

    For stubborn spots and stains, use a mild solution of Ivory soap and lukewarm water. Apply the Ivory soap with a clean wet sponge and wash. Then rinse. Let air dry naturally. Always try cleaning in a small hidden patch initially to be sure of the results.

    For butter, oil or grease, wipe excess off the leather with a clean, dry cloth. Then, leave the spot alone. It should dissipate into the leather in a short period of time. Do not apply water when trying to wash away oil or grease spots, it will not help.

    Do not use saddle soap, oils, abrasive cleaners, furniture polish, varnish, window cleaner, kerosene or ammonia. The leather has already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and needs no maintenance other than the simple cleaning recommended above.

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    Leather Terminology

    Aniline - Leather that is colored, all the way through, with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality hides can be used.
    Distressed leather - Leather that is dyed with one color over another (usually darker over lighter); this creates rich highlights and an artificial, aged appearance.
    Embossing - Leather that has been "stamped" with a design or artificial texture under very high pressure. Used, for example to create imitation alligator or crocodile hide.
    Full grain leather - Leather that has not been altered beyond hair removal. Full grain leather is the most genuine type of leather, as it retains all of the original texture and markings of the original hide.
    Semi - aniline - Aniline leather to which a matching pigment layer is added to even out the color and add protection.
    Split grain leather - Leather made from the lower (inner or flesh side) layers of a hide that have been split away from the upper, or grain layers. Split leather is more fragile than side leather or full-grain leather, and is typically used in the form of suede.
    Top grain leather - Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather.

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